Bird Rock Tropicals
Tillandsia

Tillandsia.  Tillandsia  is the largest genus in the family, with 650 known species and more being discovered frequently.  They are typically gray-leafed plants native to bright, semiarid habitats; most do not hold water in their centers.  The culture described here is for these atmospheric types; for the soft-leafed tank types, follow the culture for Vriesea.  Instead of symmetrical rosettes of leaves, some tillandsias have twisted, undulating, or curled leaves.  Others have succulent leaves, or form hollow bulbous structures at the bases of the plants.  Still others develop long, almost vine like stems.  Much of the appeal of this genus is due to these strange growth forms.  
          The inflorescences range from barely visible with the flowers nestled among the leaves, to long, multi branched spikes.  The foliage of the spikeless species often turns red at flowering time.  The spikes are frequently very colorful and may be either round or flattened.  The showiest parts are usually the pink, red, or lavender bracts enclosing the flowers.  A number of species have large flowers that may be of almost any color, and those of several species are fragrant.  Flowering of some species lasts only a couple of weeks;  others remain colorful for several months to a full year. 

  LIGHT.  The light requirements of tillandsias can usually be deduced from the foliage.  The harder or thicker the leaves and the more gray their color, the more light they need.  The thick-leafed, gray- to white-leafed species can tolerate full sun in humid climates, but 4000 to 7000 foot candles is recommended for best appearance.  The green and gray-green, softer-leafed species need less sunny conditions, 2000 to 4000 footcandles.  Experiment by moving the plants each season until you determine what they prefer in your area.

  TEMPERATURE.  The commonly available tillandsias are tolerant of a wide range of temperatures, from above 100°F/38°C to freezing.  Most must be protected from frost though some are hardy to 20°F/-7C. 

  AIR.  Atmospheric tillandsias are less tolerant of dry air then are tank bromeliads.  Withough the water storage reservoir to draw from, the plants tend to dehydrate in the dry air of most homes.  They can still be grown well indoors if proper watering is practiced.  Outside, a minimum humidity of 50% is recommended though you can compensate for drier conditions with more frequent watering.   

WATERING.  Water by drenching to the point of runoff whenever the whole plant is dry.  The frequency may range from daily to less than twice a month, depending on temperature, air circulation, humidity, and the size of the plant.  When checking for dryness, look at the leaf bases and the interiors of clumps.  Plants are prone to suffocate and rot if any part is kept wet for long periods.  Misting is not recommended; it does not supply sufficient water for indoor plants, even if done daily.

          In the dry air typical of most homes tillandsias tend to become dehydrated.  Common symptoms of excessive water stress are wrinkled, flaccid, or rolled leaves.  Drenching will seldom reverse such dehydration; the plants should be soaked by immersing them in water overnight (not more than 12 hours).  Soaking about every two weeks will maintain healthy indoor tillandsias. 

          Water quality is not important for most tillandsias.  The scaly leaves of most species tend not to show salt spots from hard water, nor does acidity seem to affect them.  The miniature species are notable exceptions; those smaller than T. ionantha (about one inch/2.5 cm) tend to become calcified by hard water and gradually deteriorate and die.

  POTTING AND MOUNTING.  Most tillandsias grow well when mounted on wood or other decorative background as described in the basic culture section.  Many will also grow well hanging on strings with no substrate, where they may form perfect spheres.  It is less aesthetic but equally acceptable to the plants to place them on an open mesh tray that permits air circulation from below.

          Species with symmetrical rosettes generally can be grown in pots, where they tend to grow much larger than if mounted.  Those with irregular rosettes of twisted leaves and those with white (very scaly) leaves tend to occur in more arid habitats and generally do poorly in pots.  Their roots are adapted to exposure on tree branches or rock surfaces; they require plentiful fresh air.

  FEEDING.  Tillandsias will survive with no fertilizing but will grow very slowly and flower less often.  For larger, more vigorous plants, feed at least once a month.  Adding a small amount (one-quarter teaspoon per gallon) of fertilizer to the water used for soaking takes care of two chores at once.